FFF04-01 March 26, 2004

Crop Conditions: The coldest temperatures experienced this winter were
on January 31 and February 1 for most places around the state.  Common
minimums were about Ð10F although temperatures as cold as Ð27F were
recorded (see article). Temperatures have been variable over the past
few weeks. Some warm days have occurred, but weÕve also experienced a
few mornings with hard freezes. Early grape varieties were bleeding
when pruned this week in southern Indiana and brambles were starting to
leaf out.  Strawberries are just starting to push new leaves but flower
buds are not out of the crown. Blueberry buds are swollen.

Specialty Crops Marketing Search:  We are pleased to announce that Dr.
Jennifer Dennis has accepted the position of assistant professor of
specialty crops marketing and will be joining us in June.  Although it
took longer than we initially anticipated to fill this position, the
wait has been worth it and weÕre really pleased and excited to have
Jennifer joining our team.  IÕd like to thank those of you in the
industry that participated in the interview process and gave feedback
on the candidates.  (Hirst)

Subscription Notice:  If you subscribe to the printed version of Facts
for Fancy Fruit, check the mailing label on this issue.  If there is a
03 in the corner we have no record of your payment for 2004 and this
will be your last issue of the newsletter.  If you want to continue
your subscription please fill out the subscription form attached to
this issue and send with a check for $15.00 payable to Purdue
University, to: ÔFacts for Fancy FruitÕ, Department of Horticulture,
625 Agriculture Mall Drive, Purdue University, West Lafayette, IN
47907-2010.  If you feel there is an error, please contact Danielle
Linback at (765) 494- 1301.

Indiana Horticultural Congress:  In January we hosted another
successful IHC.  Despite the poor weather, the meeting was well
supported by both industry and vendors alike.  Total attendance was
over 700.  We appreciate the support of the Office of the Commissioner
of Agriculture for a grant to enable us to bring in more invited
speakers this year.  If you already have your 2005 calendars, the dates
are January 24-26, 2005. (Hirst)

Cold Temperatures Hit State:  A cold snap hit the state on Jan. 31-
Feb. 1.  The cold air mass kept temperatures low for over 24 hours in
many places, resulting in significant damage to peach crops.  Some of
the minimum temperatures were: Angola-8, Bloomington Ð7, Crawfordsville
Ð27, Greenfield Ð12, LaPorte Ð9, Lafayette Ð10 (although Ð23 was
recorded at one weather station), Martinsville Ð16, Tell City +7,Terre
Haute Ð16, Wabash Ð12. (Hirst)

Cider Contest Winners:  In conjunction with the IHC, the Indiana Cider
Contest was held again in January.  Judged to make the best cider in
Indiana, was Andy Hamilton who has just taken over Musgrave Orchard
near Bloomington.  Congratulations also to the other entries who
placed, John Beasley of Beasleys Orchard in Danville and Joe Black of
Apple Hill Orchard near Vincennes.  While these 3 cider makers warrant
special mention, we applaud all those who submitted entries Ð all were
good and of premium quality.  (Hirst)

Pruning Grapes:  March is the most common month for pruning grapes.
The threat of extremely cold weather has passed and we can evaluate any
winter injury to vines that may have occurred.  By April buds will
begin to swell and it is important that pruning is completed prior to
bud swell to avoid damage to the tender buds.  Winter injury in grapes
this year is variable, but a section across the middle part of the
state has reported some significant damage, especially on cold-tender
varieties. You should assess bud damage prior to pruning so that
adjustments in the balanced pruning formula can be made based on the
amount of bud loss.  Typically, if less than 25% of the buds are
damaged you can prune normally.  If 25-40% of the buds are damaged then
youÕll want to adjust the number of buds retained accordingly.  For
example, if 40% of the buds are damaged then 60% are live. If you need
40 buds per vine for the proper crop load then youÕll have to leave 68
buds to end up with 40 primary shoots.  To determine how to adjust the
bud number multiply the inverse of the percent live buds (1/.60) times
the desired number of buds (1/.60=1.7; 1.7 x 40 = 68 buds).  If more
than 40% of the buds are damaged then youÕll probably want to do
minimal pruning now and wait until after budbreak to determine where
live buds occur in order to have an adequate number for balancing the
vines.  Spring freeze damage can also be a significant economic problem
for grape growers.  Severe damage occurred in 2002 across the state and
slight damage in some areas last year. A technique called long pruning
or double pruning helps avoid spring frost and freeze damage,
especially on varieties that tend to bud out early.  The procedure
utilizes the apical dominance of buds on the cane. The first buds to
begin growing are those on the tip of the cane, while buds closer to
the base begin growth later.  This type of pruning is only applicable
to spur or no-tie training systems.  To perform long pruning, select
canes to be used for fruiting spurs during the normal pruning practice,
but leave those canes long, with 10-15 more buds than desired. Spurs
are normally pruned to 4 to 6 nodes for fruiting, but if they are not
cut back, then the extra buds will help delay the development of the
desired basal 4 to 6 buds, which helps avoid frost injury.  After the
date of the last probable spring freeze has passed, the canes are
shortened to the desired length to properly adjust the bud number for
the vine.  Growth of the basal buds can be delayed by, as much as two
weeks if weather conditions are favorable. While this procedure
requires an extra trip through the vineyard, it can mean the difference
between a full crop and little or no crop. (Bordelon)

Pruning Brambles:  This is a good time to finish pruning summer-bearing
brambles.  Last years fruited canes should be removed now if they were
not removed last summer or fall. Remove weak or spindly floricanes and
thin to 4-6 canes per foot of row.  Laterals on blackberries and black
and purple raspberries should be trimmed back to about 2/3 to 3/4 of
their original length to promote flowering on strong wood.  Red
raspberry canes can be tipped if desired, but should not be tipped more
than 1/4 of the cane length.  If the planting is trellised, the canes
should be tied to the wires now before growth starts.  Fall bearing
types can be mowed to the ground now for a fall-only harvest, or the
fruited tips can be removed if a summer and fall harvest is desired.
Remove and destroy the prunings to help prevent anthracnose and
botrytis. (Bordelon)

Pruning Blueberries:  Spring is the best time to prune blueberries.
Winter injured wood is easily identified and should be removed.  Try to
establish an even number of canes of various age classes.  A
well-pruned blueberry bush should have about 15-25 canes (depending on
age, cultivar and growth habit) with approximately 1/3 in the 5-7
year-old class, 1/3 in the 2-4 year-old class, and 1/3 new canes for
renewal.  Pruning should open the center of the bush to encourage new
cane growth, and promote an upright growth habit by removing low,
drooping branches.  Detailed pruning to remove weak growth in the tops
of the canes will reduce the number of fruit and improve fruit size.
(Bordelon)

Straw Removal on Strawberries:  Studies done in Illinois indicate that
proper time to remove straw from matted row strawberries is when the
bare-soil temperature at 4 inches averages about 40-43ûF.  This usually
coincides with mid to late March in central Indiana. According to data
from the Purdue Applied Meteorology Group bare soil temperatures have
been fluctuating between the high 30s and high 40s over the past two
weeks.  Soil temperatures should rise steadily through the month, so
the straw should be raked off the tops of the beds and into the row
middles if it hasnÕt already been done.  Leaving some straw on top of
the beds for plants to grow up through provides a clean surface for
fruit. Straw should be removed from strawberry beds before the plants
grow enough to cause yellowing of foliage.  Allowing the leaves to
become etiolated (yellowed with long petioles) due to late straw
removal can reduce yields by as much as 25%.  However, uncovering the
plants early may promote early growth and increase chances of frost or
freeze injury.  The Illinois research found that the difference between
early removal and late removal increased first harvest by only 3 days,
so there is no real advantage. After the straw is removed the frost
protection irrigation equipment should be set up and tested. (Bordelon)

2004 Spray Guides:  The revised 2004 Commercial Tree Fruit (ID-168) and
Commercial Small Fruit and Grape (ID-169) Spray Guides are now
available.  The new issues contain the latest pesticide label
information available at printing time but, as always, you should read
and follow the label directions.  Several changes have occurred this
year and all commercial growers should have a copy of the revised
versions.  The spray guides will be available at the regional meetings,
through your local Cooperative Extension office, or directly from
Agricultural Communication Service, Media Distribution Center at 1-888-
EXT-INFO. (1-888-398-4636).  The current version of the spray guides
for both Tree Fruit and Small Fruit and Grapes is also available on the
web at:
 http://www.hort.purdue.edu/fruitveg/bulletinsmain.shtml Any changes in
pesticide registrations that have occurred since printing will be
listed under a special button on that web page. (Bordelon and Hirst)

Fire Blight:  Dormant copper sprays are most beneficial in those years
following severe fire blight. If you do feel copper sprays are needed,
we suggest you apply copper to the entire orchard block, including
non-susceptible cultivars.  The reason for treating non-susceptible
cultivars is that even normally fire blight ÔresistantÕ trees like Red
Delicious can be colonized by the bacteria and serve as a source of
infection during bloom.  If copper sulfate (4 pounds per 100 gallons)
is used be sure to apply it when trees are dormant.  If applied late it
may burn leaf tissue. Also, do not apply copper sulfate with oil; apply
copper sulfate and dormant oil as separate sprays spaced at least 10
days apart.  If copper sulfate is applied under poor drying conditions
or later than silver tip, plant injury can result.  An alternative to
copper sulfate are the fixed coppers such as Kocide and C-O-C- S; most
fixed coppers do not have the compatibility problems of copper sulfate
and can be tank mixed with early season oil sprays.  Remember however
that even fixed coppers, if applied after half-inch green, can cause
fruit russeting in years when there is not enough rain to remove the
copper residues before tight cluster.  Note: when using copper sprays,
growers must read the individual product label to ensure compliance
with label restrictions. (Pecknold)

Collar Rot of Apple:  Think back to late last summer, did trees in your
orchard show premature leaf reddening, sparse, yellow foliage, and many
small, highly colored fruit?  Such symptoms, if accompanied by a canker
(localized discolored tissue) at or just below ground level, are
evidence of possible collar rot, caused by the soil-borne fungus,
Phytophthora.  If collar rot is suspected we advise the use of Ridomil
Gold EC or Aliette 80WDG.  We especially recommend these fungicides in
those areas having poor drainage and heavy, clay-type soil. Be sure to
treat surrounding healthy appearing trees, not just trees already
showing severe symptoms of collar rot.  Both these fungicides are best
used to prevent collar rotÉ. not cure it. See ID-168, Ò2004 Indiana
Commercial Tree Fruit Spray GuideÓ, for further information. (Pecknold)

Powdery  Mildew of Apple:  The PathologistÕs Almanac states:  after a
very cold winter there will be very little powdery mildew on apple;
however, after a very mild winter powdery mildew may be severe.  The
reasoning behind this prediction is that mildew infected apple buds are
much more apt to be killed off by severe cold.  IÕll let you decide how
severe the winter cold was.  However, if you do have mildew prone
cultivars it might be wise to use a fungicide that will also control
mildew in your early scab sprays.  Nova and Rubigan are excellent for
scab, powdery mildew and rust control. (Pecknold)

Peach leaf Curl: Peach trees need all the help they can get, that
includes a spray for control of peach leaf curl.  If you have not yet
sprayed for leaf curl get on your tractor and spray the first chance
you get; however, if peach trees are at, or past bud swell, youÕre too
late.  If you always seem to be too late, consider applying your leaf
curl spray at leaf fall this autumn, then you wonÕt have to worry about
spraying in spring. (Pecknold)

Raspberry Anthracnose: The most important spray you will apply this
season for control of anthracnose on brambles is the delayed dormant
spray of lime sulfur.  DONÕT FORGET IT! Liquid lime-sulfur at 20
gallons per acre should be applied when new leaves are exposed 1/4 to
3/4 inches; if you are late in your application and donÕt spray until a
few leaves have unfolded, cut the rate to 10 gallons per acre.  NOTE:
There is greater risk of lime-sulfur burn, when applied at this later
time. (Pecknold)

Grape Flea Beetle:  The Grape flea beetle can be a serious pest of
grapes because they feed on developing buds after final pruning. Lost
buds can relate to a direct loss of yield. Grapes will be in early
swell to budbreak across the state over the next two weeks and these
are the stages most likely to be damaged from flea beetles. Scout
vineyards for these insects or their damage and control if more than 5%
of the buds have been damaged. Damage appears as holes eaten into the
sides of buds. The insects are small (1/8 inch long) and shiny green,
blue or black in appearance. They crawl quickly along the canes and
tend to drop to the ground if disturbed. Incidence often occurs in
outer rows adjacent to fencerows or woods, making spot spraying an
option. Scout the planting carefully and apply insecticides only if
needed. Damage from flea beetles usually decreases as buds break and
shoots become 1/2 inch or longer. Sevin will provide excellent control
of this insect. Refer to the label or ID-169 for complete
recommendations. (Bordelon)


Upcoming Meetings:

April 6 - East Indiana Horticultural Society.  Minnestrista Cultural
Center, Muncie.  6.00 pm. Contact Dave Clamme, Delaware County
Extension Educator.  Email: dave.clamme@ces.purdue.edu, Phone
765-747-7732.

April 12 Ð Spring Grape and Wine Workshop. AndersonÕs Winery,
Valparaiso. Contact Bruce Bordelon 765-494-8212, Jill Blume
765-494-1749, or visit www.indianawines.org

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