APRIL
2005
By
Beverly Shaw
Advanced
Master Gardener
Purdue University
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Q. I have an old hydrangea that was given to me by my late grandmother,
and I would love to have a few more just like it, but I don’t know
its name. Can I collect seeds from this plant? -- David Holiday, Terre
Haute, Ind.
A. Depending on which type of hydrangea it is, likely the best way to
make sure you get more just like it is to take stem cuttings in early
to midsummer. Seeds may not come back true to that plant.
Purdue Extension has a new tool for gardeners who want to learn more about
how to propagate their own plants. Purdue’s “Plant Propagation”
CD-ROM is kind of like a book, kind of like a hands-on class -- but better!
The CD has 52 videos and hundreds of photos, animations and graphics that
show everything from the simplest planting of a seed to the complexities
of grafting. There are sections on basic botany, seed germination, cuttings,
divisions, layering or grafting. There is also a glossary, complete with
pronunciation of the more unusual words, quizzes and a reference section
with links to the Internet for even more information.
What makes the CD even better than a class is that the lectures and illustrations
are all there at your fingertips, ready for you to learn something new
or review a technique at your own pace. And, better than a conventional
book index, the CD is fully searchable, so you can find just exactly the
page you’re looking for.
Purdue’s “Plant Propagation” CD (item number CD-HO-3)
is available for $40 from Purdue Extension's online Education Store at
http://www.ces.purdue.edu/new/. Or call 1-888-EXT-INFO or e-mail media.order@purdue.edu.
You can preview a sample chapter online at http://www.hort.purdue.edu/plantprop/WebVersion/Intro.html.
“Plant Propagation” has received several awards, including
the Garden Writers Bronze Award of Achievement in each of three categories,
writing, design and overall product, and a Gold award for Non-Credit Educational
Product from the Association for Communication Excellence in Agriculture,
Natural Resources, and Life and Human Sciences.
Q. During the recent ice storm, two of our evergreen trees got top heavy
and bent down under the weight of the ice. The trunk on one of them snapped
in the middle and the tree broke in half. The other is still bent quite
significantly. We have been given conflicting opinions on how to remedy
the situation. We need to straighten the tree’s rootball but are
unclear on the timing. We would much appreciate advice on how to proceed.
Also, a list of reputable tree gardeners in the Lafayette area would be
quite useful. -- Rusi and Navaz Taleyarkhan, Lafayette, Ind.
A. Evergreens actually experience considerable root growth in the fall,
but spring is the second best time of year to capitalize on the new roots
you need to correct this situation. Have the tree righted as soon as possible,
and stake it so the rootball is held firmly in place. Interestingly, allowing
the tree trunk to move somewhat with the wind will cause the tree to grow
stronger and faster in response to the movement. Staking is done to hold
the rootball in place, not necessarily the top of the tree. Staking material
should be removed as soon as the tree is firmly rooted, preferably within
one year of application.
I once had a similar experience with a Colorado spruce that was bent in
an ice storm. I hoped the top, which was quite out of my reach, would
straighten itself. It became straighter but always had an “S”
curve. Righting the tipped rootball of your tree, if it has been dislodged,
is the right thing to do.
The tree that snapped in half will probably never recover its original
pyramidal form. If that’s your goal, you may need to replace the
tree. If it still provides important screening and greenery, have the
trimmers make a clean cut and remove any torn or ragged edges.
I’m unable to endorse specific companies in this column but urge
you to ask for recommendations and be certain any firm you choose carries
liability and workers’ compensation insurance. A certified arborist
has passed an international exam showing an understanding of tree growth
and care. Ask each firm if it has a certified arborist on staff, and consider
staff expertise as you make your decision.
Q. We have one plant that I take care of that is having ladybug problems.
It is a fern -- there are eggs on the leaves, and it is looking really
ugly. I can see some new growth in soil, but it really needs help. What
can I do? Thank you. -- Jeanette Weaver
A. It’s unlikely that they’re ladybug problems, since ladybugs
are beneficial insects. They feed on aphids, an insect pest, and cause
no damage to plants. You might be looking at insect eggs, but other possibilities
exist. Ferns have spore-bearing structures, which resemble insect eggs,
or you may be seeing scale insects, which are under a hardened, shiny
protective covering. Bring a sample to the Purdue Extension office in
your county for identification.
In the meantime, try to bolster the health of the fern by giving it proper
care. Ferns grow naturally on the floor of tropical and sub-tropical rainforests.
Those are difficult conditions to replicate indoors! For successful fern
growth, daytime temperatures should not exceed 72 F. Nighttime temperatures
should be on the cool side, below 60 F.
Low humidity around the home, usually averaging 10 to 15 percent, can
be a problem for many tropical indoor plants. Thirty percent humidity
is about as low a level as a fern can tolerate, while 40 to 50 percent
humidity is more desirable. Symptoms of plant damage caused by low humidity
include browning and drying of the tips of the leaves or fronds. Also,
yellowing and dropping of interior leaves can mean that the atmosphere
is too dry.
There are several methods for overcoming the low humidity problem. One
way is to add humidifiers to the heating system or to buy a self-contained
electric humidifier. Another way to raise humidity around your plants
is to place potted plants in saucers or trays filled with gravel. Then
add water to the trays or saucers, maintaining at least one-quarter inch
of water at all times. The water that evaporates from the gravel surface
will increase the humidity around your fern. Double-potting your fern
is another method of raising humidity. Place the potted fern inside another
container -- perhaps a decorative pot -- and fill the area between the
bottom of the pot and the container with pea gravel or sphagnum moss.
Now, keep the moss or gravel moist to humidify the plant. Many people
suggest that misting on a daily basis helps to raise humidity. Actually,
misting only helps remove dust from the plant leaves. The previously mentioned
methods are more effective and less time consuming than misting.
A north or east window usually provides good light conditions for ferns,
while south and west windows will probably need a reduction of light.
A sheer curtain will help reduce light penetration. Or simply position
the fern far enough from the window to avoid direct sunlight. There are
no hard and fast rules about watering ferns.
The best way to determine when to water is to know your plant, and feel
the soil for moisture. Some ferns, such as the Boston ferns, should be
watered when the soil becomes slightly dry on the surface; others, like
the Maidenhair and the Button fern, need to be continually moist. When
you water, use room temperature water, and thoroughly soak the soil until
water drains from the bottom of the pot. Plants should not be allowed
to sit in the drained excess water. Your watering practices help determine
your success with ferns. If plants are over- or under watered, shedding
of leaflets will occur.
For more information, contact the Purdue Extension office in your county,
and ask for “Ferns for Indoors” (HO-141-W) or go online at
http://www.hort.purdue.edu/ext/HO-141.pdf
4-7-05
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